A few toys for your new generator.
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- StrongWind
- Tropical Storm
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 5:02 pm
- Location: Deerfield Beach, FL
A few toys for your new generator.
I wouldn't be surprised if at leat 10,000 (portable) generators were sold in S. Fl. these past couple of weeks.
Of course, don't forget the synthetic oil, extra plugs and filters, whatever cables/cords you need, transfer switch, gas cans, and the all important carbon-monoxide (CO) detector.
But once you've gotten the basics covered - then what? Might I suggest getting a "Kill a Watt" energy meter. One use for it in this case is to measure the current required by your existing electrical stuff to get an idea of how much you can run at once. Also, generators should be "load balanced." It's important to realize that even though you may have a 5000Watt gen., in most cases, it is really 2 seperate circuits that can each power 2500watts. It's also been reported that severely imbalanced loads can shorten the life of the alternator.
It's also vital to know that electricity put out you're generator is up to snuff. Most of the consumer level generators have no meters. You're lucky to even get a gas guage on one! A 'KAW' can measure the voltage and frequency of your generator output along with a few other things. Of course there's more to power quality than just that, but most people don't have an oscilloscope laying around and this is better than nothing.
The best price I have found on a Kill a watt is $18.99 at buy.com
While there get your generator something to read. Item# 33769015 - Small Engine Care & Repair: A Step-By-Step Guide to Maintaining Your Small Engine for $9.76. I hear repair services can be difficult to obtain right when you need them the most. The total cost of the 2 things will get you free shipping to boot .
May the Force(power) be with you.
Of course, don't forget the synthetic oil, extra plugs and filters, whatever cables/cords you need, transfer switch, gas cans, and the all important carbon-monoxide (CO) detector.
But once you've gotten the basics covered - then what? Might I suggest getting a "Kill a Watt" energy meter. One use for it in this case is to measure the current required by your existing electrical stuff to get an idea of how much you can run at once. Also, generators should be "load balanced." It's important to realize that even though you may have a 5000Watt gen., in most cases, it is really 2 seperate circuits that can each power 2500watts. It's also been reported that severely imbalanced loads can shorten the life of the alternator.
It's also vital to know that electricity put out you're generator is up to snuff. Most of the consumer level generators have no meters. You're lucky to even get a gas guage on one! A 'KAW' can measure the voltage and frequency of your generator output along with a few other things. Of course there's more to power quality than just that, but most people don't have an oscilloscope laying around and this is better than nothing.
The best price I have found on a Kill a watt is $18.99 at buy.com
While there get your generator something to read. Item# 33769015 - Small Engine Care & Repair: A Step-By-Step Guide to Maintaining Your Small Engine for $9.76. I hear repair services can be difficult to obtain right when you need them the most. The total cost of the 2 things will get you free shipping to boot .
May the Force(power) be with you.
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- StrongWind
- Tropical Storm
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 5:02 pm
- Location: Deerfield Beach, FL
- Hurricanebob
- S2K Supporter
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 11:30 am
- Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
Re: A few toys for your new generator.
StrongWind wrote:I wouldn't be surprised if at leat 10,000 (portable) generators were sold in S. Fl. these past couple of weeks.
Of course, don't forget the synthetic oil, extra plugs and filters, whatever cables/cords you need, transfer switch, gas cans, and the all important carbon-monoxide (CO) detector.
But once you've gotten the basics covered - then what? Might I suggest getting a "Kill a Watt" energy meter. One use for it in this case is to measure the current required by your existing electrical stuff to get an idea of how much you can run at once. Also, generators should be "load balanced." It's important to realize that even though you may have a 5000Watt gen., in most cases, it is really 2 seperate circuits that can each power 2500watts. It's also been reported that severely imbalanced loads can shorten the life of the alternator.
It's also vital to know that electricity put out you're generator is up to snuff. Most of the consumer level generators have no meters. You're lucky to even get a gas guage on one! A 'KAW' can measure the voltage and frequency of your generator output along with a few other things. Of course there's more to power quality than just that, but most people don't have an oscilloscope laying around and this is better than nothing.
The best price I have found on a Kill a watt is $18.99 at buy.com
While there get your generator something to read. Item# 33769015 - Small Engine Care & Repair: A Step-By-Step Guide to Maintaining Your Small Engine for $9.76. I hear repair services can be difficult to obtain right when you need them the most. The total cost of the 2 things will get you free shipping to boot .
May the Force(power) be with you.
Actually according to the store stats for my employer, we sold over 10,000 just for the tax free week. That is INSANE... What is more insane is the lack of "product knowledge" people have for running a gasoline engine. I work in outside sales, not in a store and sell windows/roofs, etc... and I volunteered in the Hurricane section as I was recouperating from sciatic nerve which popped out of place. Anyway, I had the opportunity to teach sooooooooo many people the proper way to hook up house power using a generator, and also how many things you can power.
For instance, probably 50 times I was told they would be plugging the generator into a 110V outlet/socket and powering their home that way. OMG, never ever ever do this I said.
Personally during my time up in the pocono's, I did have the occasion to use my backup power in winter; don't know which I hated worse, starting it at -15 degrees F in a wind storm w/ blowing snow or after a power loss from a tropical system. I hasten to say I hated the winter start because it was not expected, the generator was COLD, wouldn't start, and I was freeeeeezing.
P.S. for those who used to know me, I'm Bob formerly knew a large portion of the people here from Lowe's Storm 2000 boards. Wow, was it that long ago, sheessssh.
I hope I can help this season, I'm already signed up to help in the natural disaster for my company, in fact it was the motivating factor or at least one of them for taking the job.
bob
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- StrongWind
- Tropical Storm
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 5:02 pm
- Location: Deerfield Beach, FL
I'm not sure about synthetic oil change schedules in cars. They are supposed to resist thermal breakdown better so they may last longer. Unfortunately, finding straight answers on this is hard as most authorities on it have some sort of vested interest.Aquawind wrote:Dang.. I though I could go 5,000 miles versus 3,000 with my car using synthetic. At least that's the sales pitch I have heard for synthetic before. Regualr oil changing is the key I reckon. But those little engines use so little the expense is minimal.. Thanks StrongWind.
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- Hurricanebob
- S2K Supporter
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 11:30 am
- Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
Jagno wrote:HurricaneBob, I can't find my generators for dummy's book so can you please try to explain how to properly hook up home and water well power to the generator. Thanks in advance!
Honestly, there is ONE truly wrong way and that is trying to feed power backward through sockets.
To do it right, you'll need a transfer switch, preferably 30 AMP would give you the ability to add plenty of your utilities to it. As I remember from my home in Pennsylvania with a well, it had 220 service. For reference, go to Northern Tool, select the tab for generator, select page 3 and in there is the box I used, the outlet, everything you'll need. Do note, while at work, I did find that they were around $299 for a large switch and $249 for a smaller.
It all depends on what you are hooking up, what generator you have, what connections you have available to you on your generator, and a basic knowledge of wiring.
If all else fails, read the link I'll post here and then order what you need, and hire a electrician. The whole endeavor without a generator included is around $400 bucks. Well spent I say!
http://www.northerntool.com/catalog/buy ... enerators/
BTW, the book included w the generator usually is brand specific and vague on the hook ups beyond the included extension cord, and surge, trouble shooting, etc..
Feel free to ask more specific questions if need be.
bob
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- Hurricanebob
- S2K Supporter
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Feb 21, 2003 11:30 am
- Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
StrongWind wrote:I'm not sure about synthetic oil change schedules in cars. They are supposed to resist thermal breakdown better so they may last longer. Unfortunately, finding straight answers on this is hard as most authorities on it have some sort of vested interest.Aquawind wrote:Dang.. I though I could go 5,000 miles versus 3,000 with my car using synthetic. At least that's the sales pitch I have heard for synthetic before. Regualr oil changing is the key I reckon. But those little engines use so little the expense is minimal.. Thanks StrongWind.
My money has always been on Mobil 1 ever since I was in the car business and saw time and time again vehicles which used synthetic and those that don't. However, it will always beg the question as to those who use synthetics "may" obsess more on oil changes. That I don't know...
I've seen the "waxing" effects some dino oil posed which causes a build up of sludge.
One other thing someone once showed me.. They took a bottle of both synthetic and dino oil, placed 'em in a freezer at work and then poured the contents out. The synthetic poured like 50% faster.
Whether you use synthetic or not, the main thing is doing routine and regular changes. Let us not forget that viscosity breakdown in a machine without a oil filter happens faster due not only to dirt but to the extreme heat that single piston OHV, OHC engines create.
Being that there is no thermal regulating mechanism in a generator, I chose the synthetic route.
Hope this helps and by the way, there are millions of opinions on the topic and to each his/her own, just change it regularly and all will in theory be fine.
bob
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I'm not too experienced as a mechanic, but I've heard over and over about the importance of the "break-in" period for new engines. If you follow the instructions and do it properly, you will get the maximum performance and lifespan out of the engines. I do know that one issue with a new motor is that there will be tiny bits of metal accumulating as the parts find their wear patterns and "settle-in". Early oil changes are important to minimize this stuff from riding around in the oil, abrading other parts and surfaces. There were/are/should still be some great generator threads on S2K that were loaded with advice on the "care and feeding" of these machines.
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